Second Year Vineyard

Well here we are again with another year half finished...    

Many of us experienced an unusually harsh and long winter for 2017-2018; which seems to be a growing trend in our little part of the world.  I worried as March turned into April and the snows continued with no signs of life in the vines.   By this time the previous year, the vines, still in buckets, were greening up with new growth.   However, when the last of the snow finally melted, all but three of our vines burst into green.  Three vines lost to winter kill were less than 5% of the total.  Not bad by most standards.   

April moved into May, which remained colder than normal and with a lot of rain.   The vines continued to produce leaves and flowers…and so did the weeds.    Our soils retain water well and the rootstock is growing strong (as evidenced by the difficulty we had removing the dead vines!) so we made the decision to allow cover crops to remain between and around the vines to keep them from putting on too much growth.   We are now rethinking that decision and may place a stone mulch along the rows this autumn.  In spite of the scorching heat, endless rains, and weed competition, the vines didn’t show any signs of stress.  

As the growth continued and we moved into the beginning of June, we prepared for the onslaught of Japanese beetles.   Sprays worked until the rain washed them away.  The beetles returned and we sprayed again.   And again…and again.   It was getting ridiculous.   Then we noticed that the beetles choose the newest leaves at the tops of the developing canopy.   Maybe we can use this to our advantage when the vines are fully mature and flush with growth in the next year or two and avoid spraying so much.  While we don’t like using pesticides that can harm our bees and other beneficials, we also don’t want to have a population explosion of beetles every year to munch our vines and retarding their growth.  They also take a toll on our orchard and crepe myrtles.  The solution we’ve settled on will be to plant roses, most likely a climbing variety such as ‘New Dawn’ that will also shade the peafowl aviary near the vineyard.    

Roses have been used for centuries in many wine growing regions of the world as a bellwether for the vines.   Their cultural requirements are similar to grapes and they share pests and diseases.   The appearance of something like downy mildew on the roses is an early warning to take the necessary precautions with the vines.   Not to mention the additional benefits of beauty, fragrance, and their attraction to pollinators and other beneficial bugs.   We are also installing purple martin housing to lure these voracious bug eaters to our farm.

This year, the second year for our vines, we also set up our trellis system.   Most of the varieties we planted do well with the vertical shoot positioning, or VSP, system so that is the method we are using.  With row lengths at or below 100 feet we chose to use steel end posts with earth anchors and aluminum line posts.   We selected 12.5 gauge hard wire with Gripples® for tensioning.   I can’t say enough good things about gripple tensioners and the gripple tool.  They are so easy to use.  

We set the first wire at 40 inches so that our Livestock Guardian Dog can pass beneath without disturbing vines or grapes.   The typical height for the first wire, or cordon height, ranges from 36 inches to 48 inches.  Once the wires were in place and the vines actively growing again, it was time to select and train the cordons.  The Cabernet and Syrah vines took to this quickly and easily, starting into the second, and in some cases, third wires by mid-July.   Approximately half of the Albariño and Norton vines also started into the second wire.  The Semillion and Traminette vines are lagging behind and a few have yet to grow tall enough to reach the first wire.   I suspect they aren’t well suited to our microclimate but we will give them another year or two before we replace them with more suitable vines.   This is the reason we started with a small test plot before investing in larger blocks of vines.

In January and February we will begin our first spur pruning in preparation for our first grape crop in 2019!  

And lest I forget, tickets are already on sale for Powhatan’s Sweet 16^th Festival of the Grape on Saturday, October 6^th!

It is Official !!!

The order has been placed, the deposit paid and on April 6, 2017 GSF&V will take delivery of our first vinifera grape vines.   This first test block planting will include Albariño, Syrah (Clone 100), Syrah (Clone 877), Sémillion, Norton, Cabernet Sauvignon (Clone 337), and Traminette.

Why did we select these particular varieties?   The reasons are complex and simple.  Most vignerons prefer to grow the grapes that the wineries want to buy.  While we also wish to have a market for our grapes (we hate waste!), we also want grapes that make wines we enjoy, which should grow well in our vineyard and that are not commonly available to home vintners (boxed juice base.)   If you are a small home-vintner and want to try something fresh and different, give one of these varieties a try!

Albariño is a green-skinned grape variety native to the north Atlantic coast of Spain where it is that county’s version of Chardonnay -- the primary grape grown.   It is high in acidity, and can produce a range of types from light white wine, to oaked, treated sur-lie or processed batonnage for a fuller, richer style.  Albariño grapes make a perfect drink-it-now wine for seafood, with characteristic peach, citrus and mineral traits.  It grows well in Virginia and is increasing in popularity.

Syrah (or Shiraz) is a thick-skinned red grape variety that is also great with seafood, especially grilled or spicy fish, shellfish or mussels and other bold flavors from black and blue burgers to barbeque.  It also compliments roasted vegetables.   As a varietal, it has pronounced up front flavors of dark fruits - from sweet blueberry to savory black olive - with a spicy or peppery note in the aftertaste. Syrah is often blended with grapes that add more mid-palate, such as Cabernet Sauvignon.  In France it is one of the grapes found in the classic wines of the Côtes du Rhône.  Because Syrah wines have such thick skins with high tannin, winemakers commonly cold soak (aka extended maceration) the grapes for days (or weeks) to increase color and fruit while decreasing tannin and herbaceous flavors . Cold soaking (aka extended maceration) increases color and fruitiness in a wine while also reducing harsh tannin and herbaceous flavor. 

Sémillion is one of those grapes like Riesling which tends to be much more appreciated by wine insiders than by the average wine drinker, who, with nose in the air declares, “I do not drink sweet wine!”   Once one of the most commonly planted white varieties and responsible for some of the most famous, expensive Bordeaux in the world – Sauternes, Châteaux d’Yquem anyone? – Sémillon is now practically endangered and we can’t let that happen!   It may or may not grow well in Virginia or in our vineyard, but we have to give it a try.  At the very least it should make an amazing preserve.

A bright golden-green, thick skinned grape, Sémillon is characterized by its autumnal colors in the vineyard.   It is vigorous and easy to cultivate, and buds later (but ripens earlier) than its most common blending partner, Sauvignon Blanc. It is also not uncommon to find pink- and copper-colored berries around harvest time.  And when affected by the noble rot, botrytis cinerea, it can produce Nectar of the Gods.

Sémillon can have a multitude of flavors, particularly stonefruit such as apricot, peach, nectarine and mango, with secondary notes of citrus, nut and honey.  It is also known for its silken texture, caused by the concentration of sugar and glycerol.   It needs a partner, typically Sauvignon Blanc, to balance these traits with sufficient acidity. Intensely structured Sémillon wines may be barrel-aged, while fresher examples are typically fermented in stainless steel.   It is not a shy white, pairing well with grilled white fish with hollandaise sauce (dry variety) or bold desserts such as citrus cheesecake, or pear tarts with Roquefort crumble (sweet variety.)

Australia makes a phenomenal dry white wine from this grape due to a certain amount of rain that is beneficial to the production of unoaked Sémillon.  This brings out an acidity not yet found elsewhere.  In its home of Bordeaux France, it excels as the great, dry, oaked whites of Graves and Pessac-Léognan – indeed some would say wines such as Châteaux Haut-Brion Blanc and La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc (both containing substantial proportions of Semillon) express the grape at its very finest in a dry wine. These wines are immensely rich yet dry and can last for decades, taking on an extraordinary depth, density and creamy smoothness with wonderfully lemony acidity, with age. But sweet or dry, Sémillon makes some of best aging white wines in the world. Châteaux Haut-Brion Blanc.

Norton is a Virginia grape of small berries, blue-black and covered with a slight bloom.  The Norton grape was hybridized in the gardens of Dr. Daniel N. Norton whose home in 1821, Magnolia Farm, was located "north of the Richmond Turnpike" (Broad Street) in the area now bounded by Bowe, Lombardy, Harrison and Broad Streets in Richmond, Virginia.

Being a Virginia native, Norton thrives in our area and produces a robust red wine with big fruit flavors that ages beautifully.  In dry years, it can be high in tannins.   In Missouri it is known as Cynthiana and is sometimes referred to as "The Cabernet of the Ozarks."  At the Vienna World Exposition of 1873, a Norton wine won the title "Best Wine of All the Nations."   

Like other robust reds, it pairs well with foods rich in umami - beef tenderloin, venison, lamb or shitake mushrooms.  Horton and Chrysalis Wineries make lovely wines from the Norton grape.

In Virginia, Cabernet Sauvignon shines as the major component of Meritage along with its blending partners Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and/or Tannat.  Meritage, pronounced like heritage, is a registered trademark held by The Meritage Alliance which defines the American version of France's famed - and appellation controlled - Bordeaux.  Clone 337 from the French ENTAV, is a unique clone appreciated for its small berries and moderate yield.  The wines it produces are typically complex with highly aromatic, floral, varietal characteristics, well balanced with the tannins needed for aging, but much more fruit forward and less herbaceous than older clones.  Red berry fruits in a lush international style are typical of this clone.

Unlike the other varieties we will be planting, Traminette is a modern hybrid first released in 1996.  A cross of Gewurztraminer and Joannes Syeve 23-416, it produces an excellent quality wine suited to several wine styles including dry and sweet versions with the former displaying good viscosity.  With two to five years on it, Traminette will develop rich apricot and honey flavors.  The grape also has high acidity and low pH which harmonizes with the fresh fruit aromas and floral-spicy flavors typical of its parent, Gewurztraminer.  It does not do well sur-lie and in warm areas, bitterness and high pH can be a risk.   It is outstanding paired with spicy seasonings such as chili, curry and ginger. 

It is a cold hardy vine bearing large clusters with good yields and excellent fruit quality.  It also has good disease resistance to powdery mildew, black rot and botrytis.  A wine on the rise, Traminette is considered to be one of the higher quality hybrid grapes.

2014 Virginia Wine Summit

As is always the case, the growing season hits hard and fast, leaving little time for posting.

On October 23rd John and I attended the Virginia Wine Summit at the Jefferson Hotel in Richmond.   The Summit, as stated on the website, "is a celebration of Virginia’s wine and food culture."  We weren't sure what to expect, but we were so glad we attended.  The event brought together many of Virginia's best winemakers, restaurateurs & sommeliers from up and down the east coast, national beverage professionals and wine writers.  We met many wonderful folks in the wine and hospitality professions and look forward to working with some of them down the road.  Here is a link to the website -- Virginia Wine Summit

The morning started off with a blind tasting of Virginia Meritage blends against California and Bordeaux wines.   A Virginia wine -- the 2010 Barboursville's Octagon, was the most preferred and for good reason!  My other favorite was the 2009 Barren Ridge Meritage while John loved the 2010 Jefferson Meritage.  We also enjoyed the 2009 Michael Shapps Meritage.  The other four wines in the tasting:  2011 Stagg's Leap Merlot, 2009 Chateau La Croix de Casse, 2010 L'Ecole No. 41 Seven Hills and 2010 Glennelly Lady My Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa.

Our distinguished Panel

The Wines Ready to Taste

 From the Grand Tasting we went into breakout sessions.   John headed for the food and wine pairings while I went to learn about the Dark Horses, varietals that are uncommon and beginning to make a statement on the wine scene:  Albarino, Petit Manseng, Petit Verdot and Tannat.  Albarino is almost like a riesling and may not be suited for our microclimate though it was delicious.  The manseng was very nice as well and more suited to our vineyard.  The verdot was okay and the Tannat was surprisingly good.  It has been showing up in a good number of our Meritage blends.  We'll definitely look at planting this one.   The wines in this session were:
2013 Crysalis Albarino, 2013 Michael Shapps Petit Manseng, DuCard Petit Verdot, and 2010 Fabbiolo Tannat.

 At a delicious lunch prepared by Chef Jeremiah Langhorne, we met two young winemakers, Lee Hartman of Bluestone Vineyard and Seth Chambers of Naked Mountain Winery.   They had served their wines at the Meet Virginia Whites session.  Can't wait to taste their wines!

We also met up again with Jane Kincheloe, Owner, and Richard Carlson, Manager, of Paradise Springs Winery.   The story of Paradise Springs is pretty amazing, from a rocky start battling the local planning board in 2008 to taking the Governor's Cup with their 2009 Chardonnay!  We're planning a trip to Clifton for a visit and tasting soon!

The lunch itself was fantastic.  I really enjoyed the salad with the Foggy Ridge Cider, Autumn in Virginia.   And who knew how delicious sunchokes are!  Going to try growing those next year.

Following a key note speech by Ray Isle and chocolates from Gearharts , we moved onto the True to Our Roots session.   Vintners from the various regions in Virginia and Dr. Tony Wolf related their experiences growing in a variety of microclimates within the state.  We also had more wine to taste.

In February it is off to the Virginia Vineyards Association Winter Technical Meeting.  We'll be attending the Beginning Growers session on Thursday.  Looking forward to meeting other newbies and old friends!

Test Results Are In

The soil tests from VA Tech are in.  Looks like we are good to go once we have incorporated lime.  With a SOM (organic matter) of only 1.4% we will be adding more compost in our garden areas, but it this may work well for the vines; only time will tell.  P (phosphorus) and Ca (calcium) are low.  Wood ash added with the lime should take care of the P.   wood ash when we incorporate the lime.  Mg (magnesium) is high so we'll be careful of which limestone product we use.    All in all it's pretty much what I expected for unimproved pasture where woodland used to be.

We've also been researching grape varieties.   It seems a pretty good bet that Bordeaux grapes might do well here if we can keep the downy and powdery mildews under control.   So far the possibilities for our test plot planting are:  Sauvignon blanc, Semillion, Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec, the Spanish Albarino, Tannat, Petit Manseng, Viognier, Muscato Ottonel, as well as the hybrids Traminette and Chardonnel.  We are also considering the Virginia native, Norton. Since we do not have plans to make or wine, we aren't as concerned with growing varieties we like to drink as much as we are focusing on what works on our particular terroir and what others need or want for their wine production.   The test plot will yield only enough for small batch home production.  Feel free to contact us if you are a home vintner interested in making wine from fresh grapes instead of 'kit juice.'  We look forward to the next step in the process - making our final variety selections, matching the proper rootstock and ordering! 

Here is to Grape Expectations!  Cin-cin!